The day went well however, Mexico City is at quite a high altitude, and as i aimed for the pacific coast it was no surprise when the road began to wind down through some scenic bends. It was a Sunday and i left quite late but i knew i had chosen a good road when i passed probably 50 other bikes of all shapes and sizes heading back up towards the city.
Eventually as the power returned to my bike as more air became available the road flattened out, became dry and hot.
I was just pleased to be riding and when the sun began to go, its always a good time to stop and take it all in.
BUT when i started the bike back up after taking this photo, it was accompanied by a loud bang and a little puff of white smoke!! SHIT! i thought and forgot to return the wave to the passing pick-up. It was running however and i rode on. Only to stop two minutes later with hot oil on my left trouser leg.
At closer inspection the rubber gasket in the top of the engine had popped. Then i remembered the mechanic who had helped me through the head gasket process saying “No, No, no necessario” Grrr… Thanks buddy!
With only an hour or so left of light i pushed the bike through a small gate at the side of the road, i wanted to try and conceal myself as a man earlier at lunch had told me not to travel this road at night.
I took the bike apart and put some gasket glue where there should have been some in the first place. Fixing the bike was the easy part, concealment was more difficult, everyone could see me who came from one direction. I worried what they might think or who they might know so i didnt set the tent up until dark and tried my hand at a little camouflage.
See… almost cant see me!!
I found some water nearby that was for the cattle, it was a half hearted attempt at getting clean.
With the gasket goo set in the morning i hit the coastal road with great relief and stopped at the junction for some ceviche (fish spiced and cooked in lime juice).
The coastal ride was quite charming, it had been a while since i had been on the coast and with the bike thumping along and my new mirrored visa in my helmet i was a happy man, free from it all.
I stopped one night in a mango orchard, sorry i don’t have photos, i must have been to busy feasting on the abundance of fruit
The following day when i noticed a town on the map by the name of San Blass, the same name given to the islands we passed through in out motorcycle powered boat, i had to have a look.
It wasn’t very exciting, a small holiday town of no particular charm, but i stopped to use the internet just to let Claudia know that i was still alive after the three days.
An hour or so latter i was camped in a corn field beside these silos of sorts, what i didn’t realise is that they were full of bats ready to have a rave party later that evening. I slept well considering, i was getting tired and smelly.
In the morning it was back on the free-way north. There are usually two options on major roads, the pay roads and the free-way. The free-ways seem to be good roads except you get speed bumps on the way into and out of towns. Obviously i take the budget option.
As i entered Mazatlan a bearing in the rear was squealing like crazy. It was no surprise it had given out as thy haven’t been replaced since their encounter with the Caribbean.
Into another shop to change all three in the rear hub.
The guy in the shop told me he had another KLR the same with the engine ruined if i was interested in parts. I said, yea sure, he sounded even more convincing when he said the other one has a bigger tank. Which is typicall of the American model. “Not till 4pm” he said, when i get a chance to get away from the shop. It being 1pm I had some time to kill and think about what i would take.
Exaust, overflow bottle, tank, some plastics, CDI, carb. It was quite exciting!! but when 4pm rolled round, no bike! Its been sold/used, some other guy… I really should have seen it coming.
On i went..
I made camp on a dry river bank 50km north of Culiacan that night. By this stage i was really dirty and desperately needed a shower (5 days).
I got the shower the following morning, the fuel station provided so i bought some shampoo from the nearby mini-market and tiptoed around the aluminum cans floating at my feet. Slowly I removed the thick layer of mud, sweat and grease from my body. It felt amazing to be clean, i also discovered that i had acquired two pairs of undies from the couple i had shared the laundry washing service with back in Mexico City… BONUS!! … and sorry..